When I arrived at the Arlington Baths Club I was nervous – extremely nervous. I’d been roped into trying naturist swimming thanks to an awesome Couchsurfer named Lindsay, who was staying with me. We found this unique experience as we were perusing the ‘What’s On in Glasgow’ guide and stumbling across a rather unassuming advertisement.
I quipped to Lindsay that we should go – fully expecting a sarcastic retort – but only to be gobsmacked when she instead exclaimed ‘lets do it!’.
From the moment Lindsay instigated our activity for the evening my heart began to pound. I’ve never been naked in public before and I’m hugely self-conscious about the way I look and the way my body sits. But the mantra ‘you only live once’ was whizzing through my mind and through the midst of nervousness there was a definitive underlying excitement.
Once we’d pulled ourselves together, we headed over the bathhouse – late – and I proceeded to the entrance with caution. I knew that the Arlington Baths Club did not have wheelchair access, and I was mentally prepared for this. However, the looks on certain club members faces as I rather ungracefully got out my wheelchair and shimmied up the stairs, was priceless. The sheer fact that they seemed so confused almost made me ‘throw in the towel’ (no pun intended) – as nervousness switched to embarrassment.
A quick registration process took place before we were ushered around the premises on a whistle-stop tour. I got a bit more than I bargained for when I inadvertently viewied a well-hung gentleman swinging loosely from the hooped ropes above the pool (see image – it’s not of him swinging though).
Interestingly enough, the only ‘weirdness’ I felt on that night came entirely in the clothed variety. Firstly, on the aforementioned tour, the fact that Lindsay and I were still both fully dressed and everyone else was bollocks naked, was a real physical oxymoron to wrap your head around. The second slightly awkward aspect of the evening revolved around the fact that the staff members and life-guards at the bathhouse were also all fully dressed. It felt almost cringe-worthy to be making small talk with them as you passed in the corridor – tackle swinging freely. I soon got over that but I did wonder what they must be thinking about it all?!
I’ll spare the spiel about how it was all super liberating and whatnot. I’m sure you’ve heard all that before, and I admit it is true. The people at the swim were also super kind-hearted and welcoming. Surprisingly enough there was actually several men and women my own age – and not everyone was 50+ as you might come to expect.
As for any awkward boners, I’m happy to report I was far too nervous for any of that shit. But apparently they do have the odd occasional incident where people behave inappropriately. There was one gentleman in the Turkish Sauna who kept spreading his legs widely and wouldn’t stop looking at me. Honestly – fixed stare the whole time I was in there. Lindsay confirmed his creepy demeanor, so it wasn’t just me overthinking things.
It wasn’t long before I was asked why I’d decided to give the nude swimming a try. I swallowed the temptation to say something witty, and instead came up with the most constructive reasoning I could think of. Essentially, as a disabled man I get stared at all the time in the street, at the supermarket, in the pub – you name it, people stop and stare. So I rationalised attending a nude swim session in the following way; if I can deal with people staring at me butt naked, then I can cope with people staring at me when I’m out and about.
Well hello there dear readers, welcome back. Nice to see you! Have you come to hear more about the wonderful things that can be found in Romania? Well of course you have… why wouldn’t you?! It’s an A.M.A.Z.I.N.G country and well worthy of being on anyone’s top ten in the world!!!
Romania is a fascinating country for many reasons – not only is Romania richly diverse in terms of landscape, culture and socioeconomic backgrounds, but the nation offers an interesting look at Eastern European history as a whole, and how the country known to host Europe’s oldest recorded homo-sapiens, came to thrive under many different leaders and dynasties.
Gone are the days where Hungarian Kings ruled supreme throughout Transylvania. Now you’ll find metropolitan cities, excellent nightlife, gorgeous rolling countryside and of course, an abundance of medieval towns and citadels to keep your intrigue levels high throughout your stay.
Whether it’s supping Palincă as you wait for dinner on hot summer nights, or trying to spot bears (please don’t try and wrestle with any of them) as you drive on some of the coolest roads in the world (thanks Top Gear!) – Romania has something to offer for anyone, especially if you’re a fan of Saxon-infused architecture.
For my particular visit to Romania, all aspects of the trip were expertly taken care of by the good folks at Sano Touring – an accessible travel organisation operating extensively within Romania and offering custom made individual tours for anyone wishing to see all that Romania has to offer but whom have specific accessibility needs. SERIOUSLY, go check those guys out – they’re amazing, knowledgeable and above all… very, very, very helpful. (Yes that extra very was necessary, don’t judge).
In my last blog post, we finished off by me telling you all about the Open Air Museum in Sibiu – where we’d received an in-depth tour of the museums grounds, with expert explanations of what each of the buildings and pieces of equipment represented.
From Sibiu we then headed deep into the Carpathian mountains, climbing to an elevation of over 1,000ft, driving on roads that reminded me greatly of Switzerland. Our next stop was the adventurous town of Brasov, which is a fantastic tourist spot for all those in search of Mountaineering and/or winter based sports.
The hotel at which we stayed that night was called the Alpin Hotel and was just a few miles outside of Brasov. This required driving even higher into the mountain range to reach our final rest for the night. The Alpin Hotel is widely considered as being the best Spa Hotel in Romania, with amazing facilities for those that love to swim and relax.
Unfortunately for me, accessibility was a little under-par, and despite being booked into a ‘disabled friendly’ room, the ramp leading to my room was unimaginably steep and had to be replaced fairly quickly by another, not so steep (but still too steep) ramp. Also, sadly, all of the great spa facilities that I was so looking forward to – and for which the hotel is famous for – were unreachable by wheelchair, and with many excited children around, I didn’t fancy shuffling down the stairs on my hands and knees. (Disclaimer: I didn’t check the access to the spa area myself, but my friend did scout out the area and reported back saying that it wasn’t accessible for wheelchair users as it was downstairs and there was no elevator).
The city of Brasov itself is very picturesque, although also seemed to have the feel of being quite a sleepy town – something that I personally appreciate from time to time as it definitely allows you to collect your thoughts for a while. The pace of life within the city seemed chilled to say the least, and the architecture on show when strolling town one of the many cobbled streets was rather stimulating.
I’m a huge fan of any form of cafe culture, so finding that Brasov had plenty to offer in terms of ‘taking-it-easy’, à la coffee in hand, was a very welcome discovery for me. There are several vantage points around the outskirts of the city where you can find incredible views of Brasov below you and the hills that encroach upon it. Brasov is definitely worth a visit on any self-respecting tour of Romania, despite it being a regular tourist haunt.
Our next destination after Brasov was the intriguing citadel of Rasnov – which is conveniently positioned en route between Transylvania and Wallachia; the latter being where Bucharest is. Rasnov is one of Romania’s many fortified citadel‘s, but the main difference between Rasnov and any of the other churches in Romania, is that Rasnov was often used as a place of refuge for the citizens of the surrounding areas throughout the ages.
Rasnov Fortified Church can be reached by climbing the many stairs, or by riding the funicular that is perfectly wheelchair accessible and leads to jaw-dropping views of the township below and the mountains off to the distance. Side-note: I often wondered if funicular’s are called that simply because they’re fun?!
From Rasnov, it’s only a short drive to Bran – home of Dracula’s Castle (Although contrary to popular belief he may never have actually stepped foot inside it… blame the Germans!). When we arrived in Bran the tourism levels were insanely high, and we were restricted to a slow crawl in the car, around the castle. Given that it was a Romanian holiday and everyone had flocked to areas such as Brasov and Bran in search of a good time (cos they know what’s what…), it was nigh impossible to get anywhere closer to what everyone had came to see. The sheer volume of traffic and people meant that we never actually got to stop in Bran , but instead had to settle for a drive-by shot (see below) of the awesome and imposing castle. Despite the legend, Vlad the Impaler may have never st…. oh wait, I already told you that bit.
It’s worth mentioning once again just what an awe-inspiring country Romania is to drive in. Everywhere you go seems to be a perfect spot to pull over and soak in the scenery and capture that perfect shot. Every twist, every turn, every bend in the road leads to another spectacular view. Driving in Romania is definitely one of the best ways to travel – and I’m happy to report that accessible adapted vehicles can be hired within the country.
Moving on from Bran, we then headed to one of the main draws in Romania – the impressive Peles Castle, nestled in the Carpathian Mountains and situated closest to Sinaia. Peles Castle can also be found by opting for the medieval route linking Transylvania and Wallachia. In fact, Brasov, Bran, Rasnov and Sinaia are all perfect stop-off points when heading from the heart of Transylvania, down towards the capital, Bucharest.
Along with Peles Castle, there is also the Pelisor Castle and Foisor Hunting Lodge are also on the same estate. The properties were built under the reign of King Carol I of Romania who fell in love with the region upon visiting the site in 1866. Peles Castle in particular looks like an infusion of Swiss, Austrian architecture with a Renaissance twist, and really does leave you a little dumbfounded (in a good way!) when taking a look around.
I felt really lucky to be allowed to park round the back of Peles Castle (cos I’m gangsta AND VIP af…), on private property, which was really handy as otherwise I’d have had to stroll in my wheelchair for close to a mile to reach the castle. After parking up like a boss-man, I was then escorted to a back of the castle where staff members helped me up a couple of stairs via a ramp, From there I was swiftly taken in the rear entrance (please don’t take that out of context) where I could access a great deal of the ground floor – which was amazing and allowed me to soak up as much of what the castle had to offer as most other visitors.
Our tour for the day ended at Peles Castle and from there we slowly drove to Bucharest where we were scheduled to spend our final couple of nights seeing what the capital had to offer. In my third and final blog post, I’ll share all that we got up to in Bucharest as well as share more amazing photographs. Don’t forget to check outSano Touringif you too would like to visit Romania and have accessibility needs.
Disclaimer: all of the amazing photographs that you see in this blog were taken my travel buddy Kathryn Cooper – click on her name to visit her website. Thanks once again Kathryn!
Romania far outweighed all of my expectations, from fascinating Gypsy villages and rolling hills and mountainous resorts, to spellbinding architecture and streets steeped in history – the birth country of Vlad the Impaler (A.K.A Dracula) really has it all!
I was invited to Romania by an accessible tour company called Sano Touring and together we tailored an awesome itinerary spread over six days and encompassing as much of Romania as we could possibly fit in. You too could participate in a similar tour, and I can highly recommendbooking through Sano Touring!
Not only are the staff and guides at Sano Touring thoroughly wonderful people who are full of knowledge about Romania, but they really take their time to plan an absolutely amazing accessible itinerary, covering all bases right down to the fine details. I cannot recommend them highly enough – and Romania is such a gorgeous country, as I’m sure you’ll get a sense of through the pictures posted on this blog and the others that come.
Day 1 of the Romania trip involved arriving in Cluj-Napoca somewhat behind schedule as my travel companion Kathryn, and I, checked into the Opera Plaza Hotel, a little after 9pm and all but mustered the energy to guzzle down some scrumptious dinner before hitting the sack and sleeping right through to the morning. The hotel itself was stunning, and the rooms were perfect for me in my wheelchair, with a nice large roll in shower and a very comfortable king-sized bed. The breakfast in the morning was also something special, and with so much choice of locally sourced food, it was perfect for setting us up for a very busy day ahead!
Our first port of call on the itinerary involved a tour of Cluj; checking out the University Campus and the famous central square, which is dominated by the Gothic-style St. Michael’s Church and is also home to a large statue of Mathias Rex – an old king of Hungary, adding a splash of contentious history into the mix.
Rather fortunately, St. Michael’s Church was also quite accessible, with a level-access entrance that was barrier free and wide framed doorways which are to be expected from a church. The slab-stones within the church aren’t the smoothest of terrains for wheels, strollers or crutches, but with a little bit of caution, it is manageable and well worth checking out as it’s free to enter.
From Cluj, we headed straight on through to Alba-Iulia, passing some rather incredible Gypsy villages along the way as we traversed our way through stunning Transylvania countryside. When you’re driving through such a breathtaking area, you soon forget about the torment of being stuck on single carriageway roads for hundreds of kilometres given that there’s so much to be in awe of.
The central area of Alba-Iulia has all been recently restored and refurbished, and the grand designs and architecture make for a great afternoon of mooching around. With stalls selling local food and a fair helping of things to see – plus an awesome vantage point to see some breath-taking scenery and take lots of photographs – Alba-Iulia should be on your hit-list of destinations to stop at when in Romania.
For those that need an accessible toilet, there’s even a stair lift for wheelchairs down into the underground toilet facilities, which is something I didn’t necessary expect to find in the middle of Romania – but then again, the country is full of pleasant surprises.
Whilst you’re in Alba-Iulia, or anywhere else in Transylvania for that matter, I highly recommend that you try out some Langos, which is a delicious traditional snack, which has its origins in Hungary but has spread and been adapted all around Eatern Europe. The bready-doughnut style texture, mixed with a whole variety of toppings (I chose sour cream and cheese) is really heavenly.
If you would like a more detailed account of everything that is accessible in Romania, keep an eye out for my Accessible Romania Guide that I will be producing in the near future, and which will be available as an e-Brochure.
From Alba-Iulia we then pressed on through the remainder of the afternoon and made our way to Sibiu, where a tour guide was waiting to show us around the Astra Open Air Museum – which offers a fascinating insight into how Romanian life used to be – and in some cases – still is a bit today; with the use of primitive technologies, passed down from generation to generation. All of the monuments and structures in the open air park, represent the values and traditions of Romanian village life.
Although it’s a bit difficult to make it up towards the old houses in the village, given that the hilly paths leading up to them are not designed for those with mobility needs – i.e. me in my wheelchair – there’s still plenty to keep you occupied and with so much to see, I found myself having no real desire to go inside the buildings, but rather, I enjoyed rolling around the smooth paths and just taking in all that there was to see… which was a lot!
Whilst I was at the Astra Open Air Museum there was also a traditional Romanian fair taking place for that whole week, and so there were many stalls where people from the surrounding areas could come and sell their products. This whole experience made for a much more interesting atmosphere as it made the village appear to be ‘lived-in’, and thus, it was far easier to envisage what life must have been like during those eras.
Later that night we headed back to the Open Air Museum to have a meal with our guide Miki at one of the Traditional Inns, which is a perfect place to grab some authentic Romanian food. Let’s just say, I was full of delicious Polenta and Romanian beer by the end of the night!
We’d also checked into the Hilton Sibiu, which again had excellent facilities for me in my wheelchair, and a very cool layout for the hotel itself. I’ve never stayed in a hotel where all of the main corridors face outwards into the main lobby area. Having seen this design quite a few times in movies and so on, it was cool to finally not only be able to see it first hand, but to be staying in such a place! I’d definitely recommend if your budget allows, and the pool area is also really awesome (even if we didn’t have enough time to go for a swim given that our schedule was so action packed).
Overall, it was a very warm welcome to Romania, and something which was both insightful and engaging. Having the freedom to drive wherever we liked was also liberating, and it was nice to not only be bound by the stereotypical haunting grounds for tourists, but instead, to be receiving a much more in-depth look of the REAL Romania – again, all thanks to the awesome Sano Touring!
Have you ever been faced with a mammoth challenge, just as you’ve started to come down with a heavy cold? Well how about tackling a 1,700 mile (2,735 kilometre) drive from Newcastle upon Tyne in the UK to Cluj, Romania? This feat, is something which I’ve just pulled off – coughing and spluttering my way across eight different countries, ploughing through countless rolls of toilet roll (for blowing my nose, you dirty buggers!!) and all the while, somehow mustering the strength to continually hurl abuse toward my travel buddy, Kathryn (don’t worry – she finds it all hilarious for some unbeknownst reason).
Kathryn is a professional photographer from the state of New York, and we met via couchsurfing and now here we are, hurtling our way across Europe together on a quest to find Dracula.
I’m in Romania to sample the delights that this country has to offer after being invited to visit by the good folks at Sano Touring. Along the way, we’ll be investigating all the top accessible hotspots within the country as well as reporting back to you guys on what’s awesome and what’s worth a trip over for!
Two days ago I woke up in Koblenz, Germany and yesterday morning I arose in the middle of no-where, Hungary, at some run down motel on the side of the road – if it wasn’t for the fact that the motel had a quaint edge to it, I think we both would have felt a bit more uneasy as the place definitely also gave off a murderous vibe too – but it’s all part of the fun! The night before last we also drove a little off the beaten track in Austria and stumbled across a gorgeous castle on The Blue Danube River – which required a little extreme off-roading just to get a perfect shot – I never thought I’d be driving a Mercedes down a steeply sloped cycle path that ran right next to a river before; it was a little nerve wracking, but totally worth it.
Yesterday we stopped off and had some Vegan Goulash in Budapest at Napfenyes Etteren, which was really great and super delicious, although after growing tired of Paprika flavoured crisps in The Netherlands, all I could think about was those when tucking in. Napfenyes is perfectly located in the heart of the city. Those of you who follow me on either snapchat (@ hawkle) or Instagram might have seen earlier that we battled the wind and headed on over the main bridge in Budapest to take some snaps – all before jumping back in the car and heading across for the Romanian border.
Speaking of the Romanian border, we were almost turned away and refused entry because I didn’t have the appropriate documents for the car I’m driving. After much deliberation, the official on the border check decided to let me pass, but not before politely letting me know that if I didn’t have the correct documentation on my way out of the country, there’d be “big problems” for me. Yikes!
On the drive to Cluj we were subjected to all four seasons in one short three hour journey. What started out at 35 degrees Celsius, suddenly manifested into flash floods and hailstones so big that I was worried my windshield was going to crack – as cars pulled over and took shelter on the side of the road. At one point, the drainage system overflowed and the road and surrounding fields were awash with deep brown water… which made me nervous as it was definitely the deepest water I’d ever driven through and we were literally in the middle of nowhere. Hopefully the picture below illustrates it well enough.
We also passed through a rather heavy thunder storm and although Kathryn wasn’t able to capture any incredible lightening shots, we did snag this one picture of the skies illuminating and the wind turbines overlooking the highway.
Now we’re in Cluj and ready to begin our epic trip around Romania. I’ll keep you guys posted via the blog and through social media, so stay tuned!
Toronto, Sydney, Wellington, Eindhoven, – you’d be forgiven for assuming that the latter city doesn’t belong in such company, but then again, you’d be wrong. What causes me to group these four cities together has nothing to do with size, climate, or geographical location, but rather that all four of these awesome cities share the same hip and cool vibe, mixed perfectly with a dash of style and the arts and finished off with a healthy dollop of creativity and innovation. Eindhoven really does hold its own on the world stage, and is suited perfectly to the type of accolades that come along with other progressive cities around the globe.
When the average person thinks of The Netherlands their mind almost instantly lands on Amsterdam, with a few also perhaps picturing Rotterdam too – at a push. You’ll be hard pressed to find anyone who’s first thoughts of The Netherlands centre around Eindhoven; but all that is surely soon to change!
I was lucky enough to be invited to visit Eindhoven a few weeks ago and upon arriving, I was instantly impressed by the undiscovered beauty that this amazing city has to offer.
Eindhoven oozes creativity and reinvention, with the city that was once a hub for all things Philips now finding its own voice and putting the vast majority of old factory spaces to brilliant use.
Unlike other industrial towns that may have otherwise fell into derelict disrepair, Eindhoven has well and truly risen like a phoenix from the ashes and you only have to take a wander around Strijp S to see what a sprinkle of imagination can do for a place. Pop up stores, boutique cafes out of the back of old factories, giant food halls erected in old warehouses and even the odd hotel built inside an old light tower – Eindhoven really has stayed true to its roots and reused every last piece of space they can get their hands on.
With so much choice in Eindhoven for everything from accommodation to where you’re going to eat dinner that night – it’s easy to see why this awesome city is far from conformative. Perhaps using the term ‘hipster’ is the wrong way of describing the general vibe that the people of Eindhoven give off, but what’s true to say is that folks in this city aren’t afraid to express themselves, in whatever way that might manifest itself. Oh, and another thing – for all you vegans out there, you’re sure to find plenty to eat and drink in Eindhoven, with almost all of the cafes and restaurant I visited having at least one or two completely vegan options on their menu!
When walking through certain sections of Eindhoven, it felt like I was rolling through the set of a Mad Max film, with so much of the industrial feel that Eindhoven was synonymous for throughout the years, still being used to full affect today. The idea of steampunk is not lost on the eye when taking in all that Eindhoven has to offer, with this once bustling industrial town now home to some of the finest eateries and art cafes you’ll find in The Netherlands – and all built with expressionism and through a willingness to keep close ties with the cities humble beginnings.
Art and design are strong pillars in the foundations that make up Eindhoven, with the cities resurgence centring largely on style, elegance, ingenuity, and sleekness.
Whether its immersing yourself in the culinary & sensory mashup that is Kazerne, perusing the magnificent craft and woodwork on display in Strijp R or relaxing and unwinding in Eindhoven’s fantastic Inntel Hotels Art Eindhoven (the artsy clue is in the name) – you’re sure in for a wonderful treat. Needless to say, you will have had your fair share of daily art even before heading to the likes of the Van Abbemuseum – which, if I may say so, is well worth paying a visit!
Given the great uniqueness that surrounds Eindhoven and its regeneration, the architecture within the city is like no other. The inspiration that can be gained from Eindhoven’s buildings is so great that thousands of stylists, designers, and architects flock to the city each year to get a first-hand glimpse at the cities design. From train stations shaped like radio transmitters, to underground bike stalls that look like Metro entrances, to there even being a tunnel named the tunnel of silly walks which was opened by the legendary John Cleese, star of Monty Python.
Places to eat and drink
You’ll never be short of options for food and drink when spending time in Eindhoven – with at least 28 Michelin Star eateries scattered throughout. On my tour of the city I was fortunate enough to dine at both Kazerne and Calypso. The former offers a dining experience with a difference, as you indulge is absolutely sublime food, surrounded by art installations all around you in what looks to be an old warehouse of some sort. Calypso, on the other hand, is a much more intimate affair – but the food is no less exquisite and the throng of rather cool locals will leave you revelling in the ambiance.
In terms of something a little more café-esque, why not check out Piet Hein Eek, situated in the heart of artsy Strijp R and offering some rather divine cakes, cheese spreads and soft drinks, as well as the obligatory good coffee. The settings in which the café is housed aren’t half bad either. If coffee is your thing though and you happen to be nearby the train station, then you’d be a fool not to call by the Coffee Lab and try what is quite simply put – the best coffee in town – lovingly prepared by some of the greatest coffee Barista’s in the whole of Europe. Quite an accolade, I’m sure you’ll agree.
In terms of options for bars, you’ll seriously be spoilt for choice when looking for a place to drink in Eindhoven. To list all the amazing watering holes that you could possibly frequent would lead to a rather exhaustive list, so instead, allow me to wholeheartedly recommend three of my favourite bars. The Secret Garden leaves you feeling like you’ve stepped into another world, with so much going on around you it’s almost like a bit of a sensory overload. New York fire-escape style iron staircases trail off to the ceiling from behind the main bar and it’s simply fascinating just watching members of staff run up and down carrying plates of hot food or retrieving yet another bottle of prized red wine. Usine was another epic bar and was the one that I visited most, given its dangerously close proximity to the hotel where I was staying. It may be my poor judgement when it comes to style, or it might have been the several beers I’d had before entering, but there was something about Usine that reminded me of being in a 1950’s style American Diner, with a French renaissance twist added in there – either way it was very much like stepping back in time, which is probably why I loved it so much!
If you fancy yourself as a bit of beer connoisseur then the Stadbrouwerij (City Brewery) is definitely worth a shout. When I visited the kind folks that work there were awesome enough to allow me to have a couple of testers – and once you’ve tasted finely brewed beers, it does make you wonder why you’ve been wasting your time drinking generic Pilsners for so long. Seriously refreshing and delicious and with Stadbrouwerij being so close to Eindhoven’s longest and busiest bar streets, it’s the perfect place to start off your day/night of drinking (if you’re into that sort of thing!).
Where to stay?
I’ve mentioned already the Inntel Hotel Arts Eindhoven, which is smack bang in the middle of the city and not too far away from the main train station. Inntel Hotel Arts is definitely a spot of luxury, but prices aren’t too astronomical, so you can afford to treat yourself and indulge. Stay tuned on my blog for an upcoming post dedicated entirely to the Arts Hotel – as it’s certainly worth a honourary mention all by itself.
Alternatively, you may wish to check out the incredible Student Hotel which is similarly situated in the heart of the city, just spitting distance from the train station. The tall building dominates the Eindhoven Skyline and you’ll find rooms there to suit every need – from short stay business trips, to long-term stays for students and young professionals. The design of the hotel is extremely modern, with all the popular amenities that you would generally expect to find in a hotel, plus many more – such as a communal kitchen, a fully kitted gym and an auditorium where – if you fancy – you can give a talk to, well… whoever will listen, basically.
What to do?
Generally speaking, Eindhoven is just a wonderful city to look around and soak up the sights – but if you’re looking for something a little more specific, then why not visit one of the cities many awesome museums?
For example, the visiting the Philips Museum in the centre of the city, really helps to give you a better understanding of what Eindhoven is all about and how the city came about to be founded in the first place. Eindhoven itself was built to house all of the employees of Philips and their families, with a real Marxist feel and existence emanating from the city walls – as Eindhoven, in its creation, housed everything Philips Electronics employees could ever want, need or desire – from hospitals, to even a football team, with the grand PSV stadium still standing proud to this day.
Given the modern designs and feel of Eindhoven, it comes as no surprise that you’ll often find excellent accessibility within the city. For an accessible accommodation choice, the aforementioned Student Hotel Eindhoven has some brilliant rooms, with disabled friendly bathrooms that will match the needs and requirements of just about everyone. Unfortunately, the Inntel Hotel Arts doesn’t have a stand-alone ‘accessible’ room, but the suites are very spacious and if you’re able to get around without the aid of your wheelchair, then it’s certainly roomy enough to be deemed as reasonably accessible – I was able to fit my wheelchair into the separated toilet, for example, and if you were travelling with a portable hoist, then there’s stacks of space to squeeze this in there for usage with the bath etc, especially if you opt for one of the hotels beautifully spacious open-plan suites.
Since returning from Tokyo the most frequently asked question I’ve received has been; ‘how was Japan?’, and after carefully considering my response, my condensed answer is now always; ‘Japan was beautifully unexpected’.
Despite never having prioritised visiting Japan in the past, once I caught wind of the fact that Cathay Pacific UK would be keen to send me to Tokyo to investigate accessibility ahead of the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games – I was immediately sold on the idea.
Due to not being terribly au fait with all things relating to Japanese culture, the result meant that I had the blissfully beautiful experience of discovering Japan’s richly diverse traditions from a place of genuine curiosity and learning. From the moment I landed my senses were instantly bombarded with all manner of delights.
There are a few positive stereotypes that I’d heard about Japan and these mostly (if not entirely) turned out to be accurate. For example; Tokyo is indeed an unfathomably clean city. The mind boggles when trying to consider that 13 million registered inhabitants across an insanely busy megatropolis can keep their city streets so neat and tidy.
Another social cliche that was quickly confirmed was how orderly and polite everyone was. Whether it’s queuing to enter a packed out Metro – or bowing repeatedly as diners vacate restaurants – Japanese folk offer an air of graciousness in an otherwise sickeningly fast paced world.
Even though Tokyo is densely populated, I rarely felt claustrophobic in any way. Naturally there are many famous areas that are extremely overcrowded – such as Akihabara (Electric Town) – but it all adds to the charm of the city and it’s easy to escape the madness.
Before arriving in Japan, I’d become increasingly concerned about just how expensive the country was meant to be. I was really surprised to find that compared to other westernised cities, Tokyo wasn’t actually that pricey at all. To give an example of how reasonable some places were – I ate a mountain of sushi at a random eatery somewhere in the heart of the city and my final bill came to less than £7. It’s hard to verbally contextualise just how much I ate, but the equivalent amount of Sushi in the UK would have cost me in excess of £30!
Many of the activities within Tokyo were actually free of charge, and you can gain a lot of memorable experiences – such as viewing the cities entire skyline at night at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building – without having to fork out a single penny.
What to expect in Tokyo in terms of Accessibility
The Tokyo Metro system is enough to turn even the most logical brain into mush. It’s complex, it’s chaotic and it’s anything but straightforward. It obviously goes without saying that as a wheelchair user it’s probably best to try and avoid the Metro during busy rush hour times – although certain lines still remain reasonably quiet.
Not all Metro stations are barrier-free, although I did notice that several of the stations that didn’t have access were undergoing some form of reconstruction in what looked to be access adjustments ahead of the 2020 games.
All of the local buses that I saw around the city had ramps and spaces for wheelchairs which was good to see, however, the coach from Tokyo to Mt Fuji was not accessible at all and my wheelchair had to go in the under-carriage with all the luggage. I’m fortunate enough to be able to get myself up onto a coach via the steps, but I know for many this would be nigh-on impossible.
Accessible taxi’s – that are usually used for local disabled people within the city – can be chartered for sightseeing purposes. Regular taxi’s that operate throughout the city are usually old and small and may not be suitable for accommodating a wheelchair user.
During the ten nights I spent in Tokyo I stayed in a wide range of accommodation types, from hotels and hostels, to couchsurfing and AirBnB. The latter offered an insight into the lives of local people, and I was impressed to find that a great number of AirBnB listings in Tokyo were moderately suitable for wheelchair users in the respect that they were often open plan and with elevators within the buildings.
All of the hotels I stayed in within the city centre of Tokyo were fully accessible, with disabled friendly rooms available and lifts, automatic doors and ramps at the entrance all in place to make your stay as easy as possible. Japan is famous for convenience and ease of living and this certainly extends into the field of accessibility.
I was pleasantly surprised by how affordable many of the hotels within Tokyo actually were. Compared to other major cities such as London, New York and Hong Kong, the cost of finding a place to stay in Tokyo was very reasonable and you can find a really nice place to stay for as little as £30-£40 per night.
Restaurants, Cafes and Shops
Tokyo is a city made for food, and with that, you’re never short of choices when it comes to restaurants. Contrary to what you might believe, sushi isn’t that easy to come by unless you’re situated next to the sea. The likes of Ramen and Katsu Curry being the main stables in Japanese cuisine and can be found just about anywhere you go. Although some of the restaurants were a little on the small side, I never had too much of a problem finding somewhere to sit that was accessible in my wheelchair and it was surprisingly easy to find restaurants that had toilet facilities for the disabled.
It was a similar story with many of the cafes and shops that I visited – often the buildings would be narrow with not a great deal of room to get around, but fortunately for me there was never really any instances where I became stuck. Add to this the naturally kind nature of Japanese people and I was never too far away from being granted some greatly welcomed assistance.
Recommendations on what to do in Tokyo…
I was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to find enough activities to fill all the time I was planning to spend in Tokyo – but boy how I was wrong. There is no shortage of things to do in this great city – so here are just a selection of the things I got up to – all of which were perfectly fine for me in my wheelchair.
Less than a couple of hours by train or bus from Tokyo and you’re suddenly face to face with one of the most famous mountains in the world – Mt Fuji. Unfortunately, as is often the case, the mountain is hidden above the clouds, but when I spent a night at the base of the mountain I was lucky enough to get full views of this majestic volcano and take in all of it’s gigantic beauty.
One of the major tourist attractions within Tokyo is the phenomenally beautiful Meiji Shrine which seems to appear out of nowhere deep in the heart of the city. The peace and tranquility that the shrine offers is a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding busy streets.
The shrine offers plenty in terms of walks and nature trails, with the obvious attraction of stumbling across ancient religious monuments and temples. Of course, the shrine itself is quite overcrowded as it is one of the most popular tourist areas in Tokyo.
Senso-Ji offers a fantastic opportunity to indulge in a spot of memorabilia shopping as well as it being yet another fantastically awesome temple. If it wasn’t for the throngs of tourists, Senso-Ji would be a very relaxing setting for one to enjoy searching for a little bit of inner peace.
Here’s a piece of advice – if you enter the tourist information office opposite the walkway to Senso-Ji, you will find the most amazing lookout tower and cafe, with the best views of the sprawling magnificence below you.
For an awesome view of Tokyo’s skyline, I recommend visiting Tokyo Tower. There is a small fee to go upstairs via lift to the lookout decks but it is totally worth it and you can even enjoy something to eat and drink whilst you marvel in the horizon and the epic living portrait that infiltrates and energises your eyes.
The tower has almost a striking resemblance to that of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and it’s grandiose presence is only bolstered by the fact that Tokyo Tower is the second tallest building in the whole of Japan.
Imperial Palace Gardens
The Imperial Palace Gardens in Tokyo dominates a vast section of the cities landscape, covering a hefty chunk of land enclosed by a walkway that tops 5 km. On any given day you will see hundreds of runners running around the outskirts of the gardens, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists alike.
The gardens are extremely well preserved and easy to get lost in. It’s hard to believe that you’re smack bang in the middle of one of the world’s busiest cities. The peace and quiet within the Imperial Palace Gardens is astounding.
There is of course the famous Imperial Palace situated inside the gardens, but unless you organise a dedicated tour, you’ll be hard pressed to get anywhere near it (at least from my experiences) unless you head up to the viewing area within the gardens, which requires climbing a crazily steep hill – one which isn’t exactly wheelchair friendly, nor is it good for the hips for those who intend on walking it.
There are a wealth of different activities that you can take part in whilst in Tokyo, and to list them all would be somewhat exhaustive. Needless to say, you’ll never get bored in the Japanese capital, even after spending a couple of weeks there – or even a month or two!
Other notable mentions of things to check out in Tokyo include:
Tsukiji Fish Market
Check the short video below to see a Time-Lapse I recorded whilst taking a ride on the brilliant Yurikamome Line which I can highly recommend. The trains are completely driver-less which gives a really cool dynamic to your ride and means you can also get really close to the front and rear of the train for those perfect shots!
In closing I would like to emphasise once again what an amazing country Japan is. I’m humbled by the fact that despite having no pre-existing hunger to visit, Japan has slotted itself nicely into my top 3 travel destinations – just pipping Vietnam into second place and narrowly missing out on my top spot which is currently held by New Zealand (personal opinions of course)!
I think what I appreciated the most about Japan was perhaps also one of the most subtle aspects of the country. Japan is the first place I have ever been to where I experienced no one staring at me. It probably has a lot to do with the Japanese culture of respect and humility – but it made a refreshing change from constantly feeling judged by the looks that others give me.
I would just also like to take a moment to thank Cathay Pacific for giving me the opportunity to find out more about this fascinating and beautiful country and for placing their trust in me when asking me to write about Tokyo on their behalf. Stay tuned for my comprehensive review of the airlines service – which is coming soon. I also have some great footage of my time in Japan which I am currently piecing together and I look forward to releasing a video on my YouTube channel in the near future.
In 2016 I was approached by a lovely guy named Ric Gazarian and asked if I would be willing to be interviewed for one of his podcasts which he records in conjunction with his blog – GlobalGaz. The podcast features travellers of the same ilk – those who are on a quest to visit all 193 UN registered countries – and who’ll stop at nothing until their mission is complete.
Due to the nature of how popular GlobalGaz’ Counting Countries podcasts are, I of course felt extremely honoured to be considered and with that, I had great fun ‘chewing the fat’ over Skype and answering lots of interesting questions.
If you would like to hear my interview, you can listen to the podcast on GlobalGaz’s website by clicking HERE!